Amigurumi Santa Claus Free Crochet Pattern

This Amigurumi Santa Claus is a 17 cm crochet project made with acrylic yarn and a 1.5 mm crochet hook. The pattern is worked mainly in continuous rounds, beginning with the boots and legs before moving into the body and head.

The original designer works with yarn approximately 1.6 mm thick. Keep in mind that the finished size can change depending on your yarn thickness and crochet tension.

The project is worked in two main parts. The first part creates the legs, joined body, and head. The second part adds the arms, hat, facial features, coat extension, decorative chenille, belt, buckle, glasses, and final assembly.

Table of Contents

Amigurumi Santa Claus Free Crochet Pattern – the short answer?

Finished Size

The finished Santa Claus measures approximately 17 cm when made with the yarn thickness and tension used in the original tutorial.

Your Santa may be larger or smaller if you use a different yarn thickness or crochet with a different tension.

Materials

Acrylic yarn in skin tone
Acrylic yarn in red
Acrylic yarn in white
Acrylic yarn in black
Small amount of gold or mustard yarn
Small amount of white embroidery yarn/thread
Small amount of black embroidery yarn/thread
Yarn approximately 1.6 mm thick
1.5 mm crochet hook
8 mm safety eyes with backings
Stainless wire
Approximately 45 cm of stainless wire for the project
Approximately 8 mm chenille for the decorative borders
Small pom-pom for the hat
Fiberfill stuffing
Stitch marker
Liquid silicone/glue
Scissors
Thick yarn needle
Thin yarn needle
Pliers
A small amount of chenille for covering/protecting the wire

The original tutorial notes that the pom-pom and eye size can vary depending on the finished size of your Santa.

A Note About the Wire

The first part of the tutorial describes approximately 45 cm of stainless wire in total, with approximately 20 cm intended to support the body and head and approximately 25 cm intended for the glasses.

However, the glasses instructions in Part 2 specifically call for 20 cm of stainless wire. Because these measurements differ in the original source, this pattern preserves that source detail rather than inventing a replacement measurement.

Abbreviations

ch — chain
sc — single crochet
inc — increase
dec — decrease
sl st — slip stitch
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
MR — magic ring
hdc — half double crochet

Before You Begin

This Santa is worked in continuous rounds, so use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round.

The original tutorial repeatedly moves the marker so that increases and decreases remain aligned. Follow that marker placement throughout the pattern.

Stuff the body and head gradually as you work rather than waiting until the very end. The head also uses stainless wire as an internal support, so keep the wire centered while stuffing.

Part 1: Legs, Body, and Head

Crochet the Boots and Legs

Make 2 legs using black yarn.

Round 1: Start the Boot

Chain 6.

Starting in the second chain from the hook:

Increase
3 sc
4 sc in the last chain
3 sc along the opposite side
Increase

You should have 14 sc at the end of the round.

Place the stitch marker in the middle of the increase.

Round 2

Begin with 2 increases.

Then work:

3 sc
4 increases
3 sc
2 increases

You should have 22 sc.

The original tutorial explains that the marker is removed, the next stitch is worked, and the marker is replaced in the same position throughout the rounds so that the increases and decreases remain aligned.

Round 3

Work:

1 sc, 1 inc
5 sc
1 sc, 1 inc repeated 4 times
6 sc
1 inc

You should have 28 sc.

Round 4

Work the increase sequence shown in the original tutorial to reach 31 sc.

After completing the round, the working position sits to one side. Work 2 sc to reposition the working point and move the stitch marker.

The original transcript demonstrates this repositioning before beginning Round 5.

Round 5

Work 31 sc in BLO.

This creates the exposed front loops that will later be used for the boot border.

Rounds 6–8

Work 31 sc around for each round.

After these rounds, place the boot on a flat surface and carefully reinforce the base with silicone/glue as demonstrated in the tutorial. A piece of hard plastic can also be used as a base instead of silicone.

Allow the base to dry before continuing.

Round 9

Work:

6 sc
sc, dec repeated 6 times
7 sc

You should have 25 sc.

Round 10

Work:

6 sc
6 dec
7 sc

You should have 19 sc.

Round 11

Work:

3 sc
sc, dec repeated 4 times
4 sc

You should have 15 sc.

Add a small amount of stuffing.

Round 12

Work 15 sc around.

Round 13

Work:

6 sc
inc
6 sc
inc
1 sc

You should have 17 sc.

At the end of the round, change from black to red yarn as demonstrated. Keep the black yarn available so it can later be used for the boot border.

Round 14

Work 17 sc in BLO.

Use this round to secure the carried black yarn where necessary.

Round 15

Work:

7 sc
inc
7 sc
inc
1 sc

You should have 19 sc.

Round 16

Work 19 sc around.

Continue adding stuffing as the leg grows.

Round 17

Work:

8 sc
inc
8 sc
inc
1 sc

You should have 21 sc.

Round 18

Work 21 sc around.

Round 19

Work:

9 sc
inc
9 sc
inc
1 sc

You should have 23 sc.

Continue adding stuffing.

Round 20

Work 23 sc around.

Finish the first leg and make a second leg using the same instructions.

Add the Boot Border

The boot border is worked into the exposed loops left toward the front of the boot.

Insert the hook and make a chain.

Work:

3 sc
inc

Repeat this sequence around as demonstrated, then finish with 1 sc.

Leave a yarn tail for closing and finish the border neatly.

Make the same border on the second leg. The original tutorial then joins the two legs from the back.

Join the Legs

Place the two legs together with their back centers aligned.

Mark the center of the back where the legs will be joined.

Create a joining chain and connect the legs at the marked position.

Round 21

Work:

23 sc around the first leg
1 increase in the joining chain
23 sc around the second leg
1 increase in the rear joining chain

You should have 50 sc.

The two joining increases create the front and back connection between the legs.

If the joining section sits too high, gently pull the finishing yarn as demonstrated in the original tutorial before continuing.

Crochet the Body

Round 22

Work:

7 sc
1 inc

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 56 sc.

Rounds 23–25

Work 56 sc around for each round.

Begin adding stuffing gradually.

Round 26

Work:

8 sc
1 inc

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 62 sc.

Round 27

Work 62 sc in BLO.

Leave the front loops exposed because they will later be used to crochet the remaining front section of Santa’s coat.

Rounds 28–30

Work 62 sc around for each round.

Round 31

Work:

8 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 56 sc.

Rounds 32–33

Work 56 sc around for each round.

Round 34

Work:

7 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 50 sc.

Rounds 35–36

Work 50 sc around for each round.

Round 37

Work:

6 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 44 sc.

Round 38

Work 44 sc around.

Round 39

Work:

5 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 38 sc.

Round 40

Work 38 sc around.

Add more stuffing.

Round 41

Work:

4 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 32 sc.

Round 42

Work 32 sc around.

Continue stuffing gradually.

Round 43

Work:

3 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 26 sc.

Round 44

Work:

2 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 20 sc.

Change to skin-tone yarn.

Round 45

Work in BLO:

1 sc
1 dec

Repeat around and finish with 2 sc.

You should have 14 sc.

Rounds 46–47

Work 14 sc around for each round.

Before beginning the head, add more stuffing to the body.

Shape the Head

Round 48

Work into the FLO of Round 47.

Increase in every stitch.

You should have 28 sc.

Round 49

Work 28 sc around.

Round 50

Work:

2 sc
1 inc

Repeat 9 times and finish with 1 sc.

You should have 37 sc.

Round 51

Work:

3 sc
1 inc

Repeat 9 times and finish with 1 sc.

You should have 46 sc.

Round 52

Work:

5 sc
1 inc

Repeat 7 times and finish with 4 sc.

You should have 53 sc.

Round 53

Begin with 1 increase, then work sc around until reaching the marker.

You should have 54 sc.

Rounds 54–56

Work 54 sc around for each round.

Shape the Cheeks

Round 57 creates the cheek shaping.

First, fold the head to locate the center. The original tutorial uses a centered group of 12 stitches to establish the cheek area.

Move to the back of the piece and reposition the marker as demonstrated.

Round 57

Work:

15 sc
3 dec
12 sc
3 dec
15 sc

You should have 48 sc.

The six decreases create the two cheek areas.

Rounds 58–67

Work 48 sc around for each round.

Add the Safety Eyes

Use 8 mm safety eyes with their backings.

The original tutorial places the eyes by counting from the increase area and leaving 8 stitches between the eye positions.

Because the original source demonstrates the exact placement visually rather than giving conventional row-and-column coordinates, follow the demonstrated positioning rather than inventing additional measurements.

Secure both eyes firmly.

Add the Internal Wire Support

Use the stainless wire specified for supporting the body and head.

Fold the wire to create a stable central support and protect the ends so they do not protrude through the crochet fabric.

Add a small amount of chenille around the protected ends as demonstrated, then insert the support centrally through the stuffed body and neck.

Before continuing, add enough stuffing around the support to keep it centered.

Close the Head

Round 68

Work:

6 sc
1 dec

Repeat around.

You should have 42 sc.

Round 69

To prevent the decreases from stacking directly over one another, offset the beginning of the decrease sequence as demonstrated.

The completed round has 36 sc.

Round 70

Work:

4 sc
1 dec

Repeat around.

You should have 30 sc.

Round 71

Work:

3 sc
1 dec

Repeat around.

You should have 24 sc.

Add more stuffing, especially around the cheeks, while keeping the wire centered.

Round 72

Work:

2 sc
1 dec

Repeat around.

You should have 18 sc.

Round 73

Work:

1 sc
1 dec

Repeat around.

You should have 12 sc.

Add final stuffing if needed.

Round 74

Decrease around to close the remaining opening.

Leave a yarn tail, finish the opening, and hide the yarn securely.

The first part of the Santa is now complete.

Part 2: Arms, Hat, Face, and Assembly

Crochet the Arms

Make 2 arms, beginning with skin-tone yarn.

Round 1

Make 5 sc in a magic ring.

You should have 5 sc.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch.

You should have 10 sc.

Round 3

Work:

Repeat 5 times.

You should have 15 sc.

Round 4

Work 15 sc around.

Round 5: Make the Thumb

Work 4 sc.

Create the thumb using the popcorn-style construction demonstrated in the original tutorial: make four double crochets into the same stitch, close the thumb construction with a chain, then continue around the hand.

Work the remaining stitches until you reach the marker.

The round remains at 15 sc.

Round 6

Work:

3 sc
dec

Repeat 3 times.

You should have 12 sc.

Round 7

Work:

4 sc
dec

Repeat twice.

You should have 10 sc.

Round 8

Work 10 sc around.

Round 9

Work:

Repeat 5 times.

You should have 15 sc.

Change to red yarn near the end of the round.

Round 10

Work:

6 sc
inc
6 sc
inc
1 sc

You should have 17 sc.

Rounds 11–22

Work 17 sc around for each round.

Stuff the arm gradually as you work.

Round 23

Flatten the opening and close it with 8 sc.

Leave a sewing tail.

Make the second arm in the same way.

Crochet the Santa Hat

The hat is worked in hdc and is not stuffed.

Round 1

Make 5 hdc in a magic ring.

You should have 5 hdc.

Round 2

Increase in every stitch.

You should have 10 hdc.

Round 3

Work 10 hdc around.

Round 4

Work:

4 hdc
inc
4 hdc
inc

You should have 12 hdc.

Round 5

Work 12 hdc.

Round 6

Work:

5 hdc
inc
5 hdc
inc

You should have 14 hdc.

Round 7

Work 14 hdc.

Round 8

Work:

6 hdc
inc
6 hdc
inc

You should have 16 hdc.

Round 9

Work 16 hdc.

Round 10

Work:

7 hdc
inc
7 hdc
inc

You should have 18 hdc.

Round 11

Work 18 hdc.

Round 12

Work:

3 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 22 hdc.

Round 13

Work 22 hdc.

Round 14

Work:

4 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 26 hdc.

Round 15

Work 26 hdc.

Round 16

Work:

5 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 30 hdc.

Round 17

Work 30 hdc.

Round 18

Work:

6 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 34 hdc.

Round 19

Work 34 hdc.

Round 20

Work:

7 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 38 hdc.

Round 21

Work:

8 hdc
inc repeated 4 times
2 hdc

You should have 42 hdc.

Round 22 — Source Note

The original tutorial does not provide an instruction for Round 22. It moves from Round 21 to Round 23.

For source accuracy, Round 22 has not been invented or replaced here.

Round 23

Work 42 hdc around.

Round 24

The original tutorial describes 9 stitches followed by increases and gives a stated total of 46 stitches. Because the spoken sequence and stated total are not completely aligned, follow the original demonstrated construction rather than introducing a newly calculated sequence.

Round 25

Work:

10 hdc
inc

Repeat the increase sequence as demonstrated and finish with 2 hdc.

The stated total is 50 hdc.

Round 26

Work:

11 hdc
inc

Repeat the increase sequence as demonstrated and finish with 2 hdc.

The stated total is 54 hdc.

Rounds 27–30

Work 54 hdc around for each round.

Do not stuff the hat.

Round 31

Work 54 hdc around.

Leave a yarn tail for closing/finishing.

Crochet the Nose

Round 1

Make 5 sc in a magic ring.

Round 2

Increase around.

You should have 10 sc.

Round 3

Work 10 sc around.

Round 4

Work 6 sc, then make 2 decreases.

Leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Add a small amount of stuffing when attaching the nose if needed.

Crochet the Mustache

Chain 14.

Beginning in the second chain:

sl st
sc
hdc
increase in dc
hdc
sc
sl st

Repeat the corresponding shaping on the opposite side.

Leave a sewing tail.

Crochet the Eyebrows

Chain 6.

Beginning in the second chain:

Make 2 eyebrows and leave sewing tails.

Crochet the Beard

Chain 28.

Place the marker in the 28th chain.

Chain 9 more.

Work increases into these chains to create the beard strand. The original tutorial demonstrates 8 increases across this section.

Join the strand back to the base by slip stitching while skipping one chain between attachment points as demonstrated.

The resulting strip is then used as one of the beard pieces.

Make 2 matching pieces and leave sewing tails.

Add the Facial Details

Embroider the Eyes

Use white embroidery yarn/thread, using approximately four strands so the detail is visible.

Work the white detail around the eye as demonstrated.

Add the Eyelids

Use black embroidery yarn/thread, approximately three strands.

Place the black detail close to the white eye area without pulling the embroidery too tightly.

Attach the Eyebrows

Position each eyebrow approximately two rounds above the eye, following the placement demonstrated in the tutorial.

Attach the Nose

Place the nose between the eyes and sew it securely.

Add a small amount of stuffing inside the nose if needed before closing.

Attach the Mustache

Position the mustache beneath the nose.

Use the remaining yarn tails to sew it securely in place.

Attach the Beard

For the first beard strip, count approximately five stitches from the indicated area and position the strip at the level of the eyelid.

Attach the second beard strip below the first as demonstrated.

Secure the remaining yarn tails and hide them inside the piece.

Crochet the Front of Santa’s Coat

Return to the exposed front loops left from Body Round 27.

Coat Round 1

Attach yarn to the exposed front loops.

Work 62 sc across.

This creates the starting edge of the front coat section.

Coat Round 2

Turn the work.

Chain 1 and make one decrease at the beginning of the row.

Continue with sc across.

The source states 61 sc total for this row.

Coat Round 3

Turn.

Make one decrease at the beginning, then continue with sc.

The source states 60 sc total.

Coat Round 4

Turn.

Make one decrease at the beginning, then continue with sc.

The source states 59 sc total.

Coat Round 5

Turn.

Make one decrease at the beginning, then continue with sc.

The source states 58 sc total.

Leave a yarn tail for finishing.

The original tutorial demonstrates the decrease by skipping one stitch and working into the next.

Add the Chenille Borders

The original tutorial uses approximately 8 mm chenille for Santa’s decorative borders.

If you prefer not to glue chenille, the tutorial also explains that the borders can be crocheted using a magic ring with eight sc and the required number of rounds.

When gluing chenille, work slowly and use only a small amount of adhesive so it does not stain the crochet fabric.

Hat Border

Apply the chenille around the lower edge of the hat.

Keep the glue controlled and press the chenille into position.

Allow it to dry completely.

Attach a small pom-pom to the tip of the hat.

Arm Borders

Apply the chenille around the lower edge of each arm.

Keep the joining point toward the inside so the finish is less visible.

Body Border

Apply the chenille around the designated coat/body edge.

Work slowly around the body so the border remains even.

Boot Borders

Apply the chenille around the boot edge.

Allow all glued sections to dry completely before handling the finished Santa.

Sew the Arms in Place

Position each arm against the body.

Sew the arm securely to the body.

The tutorial also adds a small stitch underneath the arm to prevent it from lifting too far away from the body.

Tie the remaining yarn tails securely, hide them through the crochet fabric, and trim the excess.

Shape the Hat

Place the finished hat on Santa’s head.

Use a few small stitches to create and maintain the desired shape.

Secure the yarn inside the hat with knots and hide the remaining ends.

Make the Belt

Chain 64.

Starting in the third chain from the hook, work 62 hdc.

Leave a sewing tail.

Wrap the belt around Santa’s body at the desired position and sew it securely.

Hide the yarn ends through the crochet fabric.

Make the Belt Buckle

Make a magic ring with 15 sc.

Close the ring with a slip stitch.

Arrange the ring into the buckle shape shown in the tutorial.

Hide the yarn ends and attach the buckle to the center of the belt.

The original tutorial uses a small amount of adhesive, although the buckle can also be sewn in place.

Make the Glasses

The second part of the original tutorial specifically instructs using approximately 20 cm of stainless wire for the glasses.

Use a pen or similar rounded object as a shaping guide. The guide should be thicker than the safety eye.

Leave approximately 4 cm of wire at one end.
Wrap the wire around the guide to create the first lens.
Leave approximately 1 cm for the bridge.
Form the second lens.
Bend the remaining wire ends.
Cut both ends to a similar length.
Bend the tips inward so they do not protrude.
Shape the glasses so they sit over Santa’s eyes.

The glasses should be positioned carefully so the wire does not scratch or protrude through the finished crochet piece.

Final Assembly

Before considering your Santa finished, check each part in order:

The body and head are firmly stuffed.
The internal support wire remains centered.
Both safety eyes are secure.
The nose is centered.
The eyebrows are positioned evenly.
The mustache is securely attached.
The beard pieces are positioned correctly.
Both arms are securely sewn to the body.
The hat is positioned and shaped.
The pom-pom is securely attached.
The coat extension is finished.
The chenille borders are firmly attached and dry.
The belt is sewn around the body.
The buckle is centered on the belt.
The glasses sit correctly over the eyes.
All yarn tails are hidden.
Any adhesive has completely dried.

Once everything is secure, gently shape the body, head, hat, arms, beard, and clothing details to give Santa his final appearance.

Source Notes for Pattern Accuracy

This pattern follows the supplied original tutorial rather than importing measurements or stitch counts from another Santa pattern.

A few details in the original source are incomplete or internally inconsistent. They have deliberately not been silently reconstructed:

Hat Round 22 is missing from the original tutorial.
Some hat instructions use inconsistent stitch terminology while the demonstrated construction uses half double crochet.
Hat Round 24 contains a sequence/stated-total discrepancy.
The materials section describes approximately 45 cm of total stainless wire, while the second-part glasses instruction specifically calls for 20 cm.
Exact yarn yardage is not provided.
Exact finished dimensions for individual components are not provided.

Keeping these source notes visible protects the pattern from introducing invented instructions while preserving the original tutorial’s construction.